Camino Compostela

A review of our 7 day Camino France hiking - the last 133 km from Samos to Santiago de Campostela. 

Below a guide to each of the seven days with a short video from the route of the day.
The Camino from Sarria is the shortest route to get the Compostela, the official certification of the Camino de Santiago.
Although the usual is to start this route in the French town of St Jean Pied de Port, many pilgrims decide to make a much shorter French route. Thus, they start from Sarria (in Galicia) and cover 69 miles (111 kilometers), the minimum distance to obtain the Compostela
Each of the different stages of this part of the Camino has a distance of just over 12 miles (20 kilometers) that must be traveled daily, so the route can be completed in approximately 5 or 6 days.
Some pilgrims want to hurry their experience and do it in 4 days. Even though this is possible, it is advisable to take at least 5 days, to enjoy the experience to the fullest.

A video from my last 133 km from Samos to Santiago de Compostella:

  

Pilgrimspas - Credentials

When you walk on the Camino, you bring Credentials - originally a recommendation from the local clergyman confirming that you were pilgrim - today a pilgrimage is documented with stamps from accommodations, in churches you pass or at restaurants or cafes where you eat.

Credential with stamps document the city where the trip started, the route and the distance travelled. 

When you reach Santiago de Compostela you will get a 'Compostela' - a certificate of where you started the journey, the distance you have travelled, and the date of arrival and arrival to Santiago

We have travelled 133 km from Samos to Santiago on 7 days.  

Arrival at Sarria

We did fly Swiss Air from Copenhagen via Zürich to  Santiago de Compostella.
On the flight from Zürich many passengers with hiking boots, it was obvious that many were going to the Camino.
We had booked a taxi through the hostal in Sarria.
The taxi driver,  waited for us with a sign with my name. After filling out some papers - communication was not that easy as the driver could not speak English - we drove to Sarria - the ride would take about one and a half hours.
A pleasant drive in nice weather, through a very beautiful landscape with lots of pine forests.

Kitchen area at our Hostal

Our room

Restaurant for dinner

We did book all hotels at booking.com. First two nights booked at the Boutique Hostal La Casona de Sarria in the pedestrian area of the old part of the city. Spartan, but clean and tidy and that was all we needed. A kitchen with coffee / tea and a fridge with drinks included in the price. We went for a walk and found a place to have dinner. A cheap meal consisting of 3 simple dishes and one big draft beer for 9 EUR per person - very nice. Now it was time to pack your backpacks for tomorrow's hike.

Day 1: Samos to Sarria - 15 km

Sunday morning - we got up at 6 am - it was still dark, sunrise at 8 am.
Many Pilgrims were on their way from their Hostal or Alberque to one of the many restaurants that served breakfast from 6 am.
Our breakfast was at another Hostal than where we slept - nice meat with bread, fruit, juice, pancakes, cheese, Spanish sausage and jam was served at long tables by a very friendly staff. We were many nationalities - Spain, Brazil, Ireland, Norway, Belgium and Taiwan.

Today's hike was from Samos back to Sarria. The taxi driver from yesterday picked us up at 8:30 and took us from Sarria to Samos.
We were dropped off at the Benedictine Monastery - dating back to the 7th century. Very impressive and well-preserved. 
We found a cafe overlooking the monastery and enjoyed a cappuccino - we also got the first stamp in our 'Credencial'.
At 10 o'clock we started at our Camino walk - first along the country road and then we follow Rio Sarria through the forest, and corn field - in the most beautiful weather. It was cool to start with - 13 gr C. But gradually the temperature rose to the middle of the twenties.
The trails sometimes went into deep cavity created by walkers / pilgrims for 1000 years. We passed several chapels and went through small towns that consisted of few houses - very decayed and primitive - hay was turned manually by river. After 10km we had lunch at a cafe - sandwich with Spanish ham and cheese while we rested our feet.

After 15 km we arrived at Sarria at 3 pm. 
Quickly we got the boots replaced with sandals and found a cafe for a drink. At 6:30 pm we went to the same restaurant as yesterday for dinner.
The first day at the Camino and the first 15 out of 133 km.

Hostal La Casona de Sarria

Breakfast table....

... with many nationalities

Day 2: Sarria to Portomarin - 22 km

Early start of the day. After breakfast we packed the suitcases and put them for pickup - they were transported from hotel to hotel by the Spanish post office, Correros. At 8:30 am we, like many others, started our hike towards to Portomarin. The first break was in Barbadelo. From there we went to Perus Callo, where we got a cappuccino. The landscape went like yesterday through forests and over open fields, through small towns with old houses and primitive farmers. Everywhere at the farms we saw the so-called Horreo - small cabins built on stone shelves - characteristic of this particular area - for storing dried corn. This is a very relaxed stage, with the only outstanding difficulty of a wavy surface during the first 8 miles.

In many places we walked on stony paths with greened hay on both sides. At 12:30 we ate lunch at Casa Cruceiro in Ferreiros. Here, a lot of pilgrims stopped for lunch so it was fun with the selection. We continued our trip and reached the stone that indicated that we were now 100km from Santiago de Compostello. After another 4 km we stopped in Mercadoriofor an ice cream. We continued at some slower pace until we reached the bridge over the Rio Mino River. A spectacular view of the ruins of the old town of Portomarin along the banks and out in the water.

The Church of Santiago is a good place to stop - it is decorated with the typical Santiago scallop shells. When you arrive in Portomarín, you will find points of interest such as the Escalinata or the Chapel of Neves 1960 in connection with the construction of a dam and you moved a part of the old buildings and the church to preserve what you could. The rest of the city of Portomarin was built. 

 

At 4:30 pm we arrived to Portomarín and found the apartment - Casa de Manuel - we have booked. 

Went for a walk to the square and the church and found a restaurant where we ate bread and Spanish cheese. 

 

Start in Sarria

Lunch at Casa Cruceiro

Horreo's along the roard

Day 3: Portomarín to Palace do Rei - 24 km

We packed the suitcases and asked them outside the door - ready for the hike at 8:30 am. On third second day you will found a hill up to Sierra de Ligonde followed by a gradual descent.

Another day with fog - 11am the sun did shine while we were just heading out of the woods into the open landscape. After 8 km in Gonzar we came by a place where we could rest and have a cup of coffee. 

We continued - The camino was on this piece not particularly interesting in nature - we walked over a small mountain - a very hot trip. Stopped next time in Ventas de Naron, where we drank a coke. Now we had gradually traveled 13.5 km.

When leaving the village, the Camino crosses the river Minho and it goes steadily up the next 25 km (about 6 t). Along the way, Gonzarz crosses and the road goes past the Romanesque church of Santa María, Castromaior. The peace of the Galician cemetery in Ligonde is lousy on a hot summer day. In Eirexe is the gateway to the church a Romanesque beauty and there is a sculpture of Daniel and the animals, as well as by the apostle James as a pilgrim.

Just before Ligonde we crossed a road cross from 1670 - 'Cruceiro de Lameiros'. At Portos we stopped at a cafe and ate Galician pie. The last piece went by road through corn fields. After 25.5 km we reached after a long and rather warm day finally Palace de Rei at 4:30 pm

We stayed at the hotel Complejo La Cabaña - a small and quite nice hotel - majority of guests were pilgrims-hikers.

Mist in the morning

Corn Fields along the route

Chapel along the Camino

Day 4: Palace do Rei to Melide - 14 km

This is probably the most challenging stage of this way, but also the most rewarding one. It is the longest stage and it presents a hard surface, with ups and downs, making it diffitul to keep a regular pace. After a bath, we stopped and walked out at 18 in town to find your place to eat, as we had found online with good reviews. It turned out to be closed for tonight, but the owner recommended us two other restaurants. The weather was still one of the best summer days at home - 26 degrees, no clouds, lots of sunshine and a light breeze. We drank a beer in the old town and found the two restaurants, but they did not appeal to us. In general, it is our experience that most places here in Galicia (along the Camino) serve prefabricated and deep-fried foods - looking for places serving food made from the bottom. On the way we found a grocery store where we bought a bottle of water to join the hotel. Jessie asked if the merchant could recommend a nearby restaurant that did not serve fast food. He handed Casa Alongos to the Camino and we found it quickly. Cozy place - we sat under a pergola of kiwi plants and ate. Back to the hotel we went to bed.Hike for a total of 29 km (about 7 h). It is only a little bit down the village Casanova and it nice town of Leboreiro. At Melide it is recommended to be kept and taste some of the locals specialties. Later in the day, the route offers a forest line and crosses several streams You reach the village of Boente with the little church. Then pass the medieval village of Ribadiso and finally Arzúa. Both cities have churches worth a visit: Santa Maria and La Magdalena. We shall live at Pazo Santa María in Arzùa.

Many types are walking on the camino. Today we could sleep a little longer partly because we should not go so far - 14.5 km - and partly because our suitcases had to be taken for pickup at 8:30. We ate breakfast, got the snowy hiking boots and arrived at 9:30. The nature / landscape was much like the other days - the first stop was Casa Domingo after about 5 km. We got a cup of coffee and a "french knight" for sharing. We have now gone halfway to Santiago de Campostela. Further to the next stop - Campanilla - after 8 km. Here were many guests who rested their legs - we took off our boots and dried the socks in the sun while we ate an ice cream and shared a coke. Then we went for the last 6 km to Melide - quickly found the hotel Xaneiro (at 15), the room was by no means flashy, but there was hot water in the cock and a bed to lay in, but no window (we are in the EU - but it did not go in Denmark). But what can you expect for 45 EUR (335 kr). Mogens bed was ok, but I'm avoiding the blanket tonight and be content with a team - it did not respond to my standard (must be clean !!!!).

Chapel

Typical route mark

Church along the Camino

Eucalyptus træer

Typiske stier gennem skovene

Hulveje efter 1000 års vandring

Day 5: Melide to Azura - 15 km

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At 14:00 we arrived at our destination - Pazo Santa Maria. If the hotel was disappointed yesterday, Pazo Santa Maria was better than expected - an old mansion from 1711 that was beautifully set up with super lovely rooms. After a quick shower we sat on the terrace and drank a beer. After having rested and reading today's newspaper, we ate dinner at 20 in the restaurant. Very delicious homemade food: Greek-style soup with roasted dates, calf skinned with carrots and potatoes, Galician almond cake, unlike the other prefabricated cakes we tasted the trip, was home-baked with a clear structure of chopped almonds. Now it had been bedtime before we get up early for a little longer trip tomorrow.

We had decided to start the day early so we could get well before it got too hot. The suitcases were put in the hotel reception at 08am and headed for Azura - a 15km ride. Breakfast was not included in the hotel price, so we got a 'petit déjeuner' at a cafe in Melide. It was a nice trip with the rising sun and the fog that was still low over forests and meadows. After 4 km through forest we stopped at a cafe a little before Boente and bought a cafe con leche. Enough Camino's nicest cafe. Where we went along the rivers at the start of our Camino tour, this means that it is constantly moving up and down relatively slowly and many beaks were passed on old and sometimes primitive bridges. The stand has also changed the character from low wide oak trees to tall slender eucalyptus trees. At Ribadiso da Baixo we stopped to rest our legs, eat an ice cream and drink a coke within the last 4 km to Azura.

Horreo i morgentågen

Typisk cafe langs vejen

Endnu en cafe

Indgangen til Pazo Santa Maria

Vores værelse - sengen

Vores værelse - sofaafdeling

Day 6: Arzùa to Rùa-O Pino / O Pedrouzo - 19 km

This is a beautiful stage with areas that pass in the middle of beautiful forests. In addition to admiring the nature and the rural roads, you will find places like the Fountain of Santa Irene, known by pilgrims as the "Fountain of Eternal Youth" or the beautiful surroundings of the Noa River waterfall

Mogens, of course, only sensed to get the showdown on video - Jessie did not have the time to take pictures. We had eagerly agreed that we should be better off for breaks, but neither today did we hold the agreement, so it went 7km before the next stop and it's far too far. Ate an ice cream and shared a coke within the last 5 km to the accommodation Pension LO in the town of O Pedrouzo. Really nice place - brand new - small but nice and clean room. After bathing and rest we went down to town (400 meters) and found a restaurant - Taste The Way - where we ate Galician food and drank local wine - a so-called tasting menu. Today we have rounded 120km since we started - it has been bedtime before the last hike of the trip.

Today's shady walk goes 18 km (about 5 h) through forest, along the stream and through the lake ugly villages. Spend some time and visit the chapel of Santa Irena with the beautiful statue of Saint Jacob. The rest of the road to Rua / Opino is on quiet country roads. Rua is one of the quietest places to Gore held before Santiago de Compostela. We live at PR Una Estrella Dorada in O Pedrouzo

We ate breakfast at 7:30 am - again a very beautiful start to the day where the train was low and the sun was getting up when we left at 8:30. The Caminovanders came from all places in the city of Arzúa where we had stayed and headed for the Camino. Have fun every morning to start out with all the other hikers - more we have walked right from the start. We walked the first 4 km through woods - not as big altitude differences as yesterday, but still hilly - before it was time to stop - ate a banana and Mogens drank a cup of Cafe Leche. We continued - it was barely as hot as the other days, but fortunately, much of the Camino also went under shady trees today. Occasionally we had a chat with other migrants - today a woman from Australia and when we told we came from Denmark we were almost in family. The talk quickly fell on Mary and our royal family as she almost knew more than we ourselves. Another couple we talked to was from Guatemala - so we have met many nationalities, but still no Danes. Again time for a stop after another 5 km - the boots off and a glass of freshly squeezed juice. In addition to the wanderers we also met a large bunch of cows that came against us - a little scary to pass these big animals that went on both the right and the left of us - Jessie did not even think it was as fun as

Galiciske tærter

Galiciske oste

Blækspruttearm

Day 7: O Pedrouzo- Santiago de Compostela - 20 km

Get ready for the wonderful feeling of contemplating the Cathedral of Santiago. From the 9th mile you can begin to see the Cathedral towers for the first time. You will cross part of the city after reaching the Monte do Gozo, the Fontiñas neighborhood and San Pedro street. You will notice how a spark of joy begins to be felt in your stomach with every step you take. As you walk, you can't help but smile while you feel the splendor of reaching the finish line in Plaza del Obradoiro and looking at the Cathedral.

We ate breakfast at 7am. When we were ready to go, it had not begun to light yet, so we waited a quarter of a day before we left. The first part of the trip went through woods and with some rises - when we met the first cafes it was too early to stop for a rest, but it meant that we walked about 9 km before the first stop where we drank a cappuccino. We now passed close to the airport, which was built at no time without regard to the Camino - probably before it was a tourist magnet. Went a short stretch along the fence at the end of the runway. After 15 km we rested our feet - off with boots and socks and on our Havaianas while we ate an ice cream.

We also had to make sure we got the necessary stamps in our pilgrimage pass.

Almost promoted - only 21 km / approx. 5.5 t! But first goal is Lavacolla where pilgrims are doing the traditional laundry before the goal of Santiago de Compostela. The tall eucalyptus trees forms the road to Monte del Gozo (368m). From this "joy mountain" you can see on a clear day the sprouts on your goal - the cathedral of Santiago! From here it goes downhill to the city. fantastic architecture and a magnificent atmosphere flow through this cultural and spiritual highligh

The last 21 km to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

After a short walk, we came to Monte do Gozo, a viewpoint from which we could see the cathedral of Santiago in the distance. On the top is a memorial of the pope's visit in 1992.
Now it was the last 4 km. We entered the new part of Santiago with industry and residential district. Long from the middle. Gradually, the city changed its character - we approached the old town. Went through pilgrimage at 14:00 and there were the cathedral and the surrounding old palaces. Absolutely magnificent. During the day we had become a lot of hikers - along the way we talked to a Danish couple from Viborg who had also started in Sarria. We recognized many as we had met before - someone we had eaten breakfast with there very first place we stayed - others we had met every single day since the start.



In Santiago we walked around and looked around the cathedral area, but decided to find the hotel so quickly. It was as expected the pure luxury we were supposed to stay at - more luxury than expected because we had been upgraded to a suite - a living room with sofa and views of the cathedral and a bedroom with a huge bed. We really needed a bath and some clean clothes. Jessie called Gitte and had a nice chat with her. Before we went back to town to get our Pilgrims Certificate (Campostela). There were many others who should also have - we stood in line for one and a half hours before our trip. Now sat at a cafe at the cathedral and watched the many people. Went back to the hotel where we ate Pizza in the most beautiful summer evening before we walked up to our rooms at 21:45. The day was over and we went tired in bed 

 

The last day in Santiago de Compostela

The sun did not get up until 8:15 pm - a beautiful view of the cathedral towards the morning light. After breakfast, we went back to the old town - still deeply impressed by the many great beautiful churches and palaces in the relatively small town. We got a cappuccino in the lovely morning sun. Many people, but there are also around 2000 pilgrims to the city daily - some will be a few days. As we walked through the streets, we had set ourselves a couple of tapas bars, the first one was very busy while the other had a seat at the bar - we chose some exciting tapas with marmalade of peppers, cheese, grilled peppers with sardine and advokado mash with smoked salmon - very delicious - a glass of local white wine. In the afternoon we read on the hotel terrace and enjoyed a cappuccino. We packed the suitcases before we went down to the terrace to eat a little in the evening. It became a gin and tonic and a salad with blue cheese. At 21:15 we went to our suite.

Tapasbar

Sardin og røget laks

Peberfrugt og ost